Battambang

To get another perspective, leave the caves a little early and head back to Battambang. Ask your tuk tuk driver to stop as soon as you hit the main road after the caves and watch the spiral of bats snaking into the distance from afar.

It’s well worth heading to Phnom Sampeou in the early afternoon and spending some time exploring the site before hitting the bat caves. From the base of the mountain, you can either climb 700 steep steps to the top, or pay one of the moto drivers waiting at the bottom to take you up for $1 – tuk tuks are not allowed.

At the peak sits a delicately-decorated pagoda that affords unparalleled views of the surrounding countryside. Dubbed Cambodia’s rice bowl, Battambang is home to shimmering paddies studded with palm trees that stretch to the horizon.

The mountain – more a large hill – is also sacred to locals as it features in the legend of Neang Rumsay Sok. According to Khmer folk lore, she was a jilted by her lover, going on to battle a vengeful crocodile. She managed to defeat the beast by letting her hair down into the water causing the water the reptile was swimming in to dry up.

The site also pays tribute to those who lost their lives in Cambodia’s more recent history. Under the Khmer Rouge regime of 1975 to 1979, some of the caves – dubbed the Killing Caves – were used by soldiers who pushed their victims to death from a hole in the roof. A small monument containing some of the skulls and bones of those who died sits inside the main caves.

The pagoda also served as a prison and torture centre during the Pol Pot-led era, and up until the mid-1990s, government troops camped out on the mountain, with Khmer Rouge soldiers occupying nearby Phnom Krapeu.

With an intriguing history, stunning views and the chance to watch nature work her magic, a visit to Phnom Sampeou and the bat caves is a must on all Battambang visitors’ itineraries.

Phnom Sampeau, Battambang

The famous Cambodian dish of Kampot pepper and crab was born in this stylish seaside town, and a visit to the Crab Market serves up an authentic taste. Watch women wade into the sea to haul in the crab baskets ahead of being served the freshest dish in the Kingdom. There are several neighboring shacks to enjoy an accompanying beer.

Nestled a short ferry ride from Phnom Penh, this small island sits a million miles away from the capital’s hustle and bustle. Perfect to explore on the back of a bike, Koh Dach, also known as Silk Island, is renowned for its silk weaving, with a center dedicated to ancient techniques open to the public.

This pretty hilltop pagoda and surrounding area offers stunning views across the province’s pristine paddies. The sobering Killing Caves pay tribute to the lives lost there during the Khmer Rouge reign while spending sunset at the base of the site—the bat caves—has a seemingly endless stream of bats spiraling to the sky for a night of hunting.

Rumors have been circulating for the last few years about the famed bamboo train’s demise. However, it was recently confirmed it will be rebuilt to pave way for a train line. This unique trip sees passengers transported seven kilometers on a bamboo train, or norry, which is a wooden frame connected to an engine. Hitting speeds of 15 kilometers per hour, this is a fun way to watch the scenery whizz by.

Cambodia’s lesser known UNESCO site is well worth getting off the beaten track to visit. The stunning temple complex, which sits on the border of Thailand, boasts fewer crowds and a more authentic taste of the Khmer kingdom. Breath-taking views from its summit can be enjoyed.